EV charger stopped working or keeps tripping? Here's how to diagnose the fault yourself, what to leave to an electrician, and what repairs typically cost in 2026.
A dead home charger is more than an inconvenience, it can mean missed journeys and a car sat on a low battery overnight. Most faults have straightforward causes, though, and not all of them need an emergency callout. Here's how to work out what's wrong, what you can safely check yourself, and what a repair or replacement is likely to cost in 2026.
Before you call anyone out, run through the basics. These are fairly quick and solve a surprising number of "broken" chargers.
• Check the consumer unit for a tripped RCD or breaker and reset it once, not repeatedly
• Confirm the charger's own indicator light isn't showing a specific fault code (check the manual or manufacturer app)
• Try a different charging cable if you use a separate one, in case it's the cable that's faulty
• Restart your home wifi router if the charger relies on an app for scheduling or start/stop
• Check the car itself isn't the issue, some vehicles have their own charge-lock or delay settings
• Look for obvious physical damage to the cable, plug or connector housing
If the RCD trips again as soon as you reset it, stop there. That's not something to keep resetting, it usually points to a genuine fault in the unit, the cable, or the wiring feeding it.
This is the most common complaint and the one that needs the most caution. A charger that trips the RCD every time it's plugged in usually has a fault in the unit itself, in the cable, or in the earthing/wiring to the charger. It can also happen if the charger is on a shared circuit with other high-draw appliances, or if the original installation wasn't done to the right standard. Don't keep resetting and using it: repeated tripping is the electrical system doing its job and warning you something's not right.
Usually one of three things: a tripped breaker upstream, a failed internal component (contactor, PCB), or a supply issue further back in the house. Worth ruling out a general power cut or fuse box issue first, something we cover in our guide on what to do when you lose power at home.
Smart chargers that won't connect to the app are often a router or firmware issue rather than an electrical fault. The charger can usually still deliver power in "manual" mode even if the app's down. Manufacturer support is your first port of call here, not an electrician.
Cracked cable sheathing, a connector that won't latch, or a socket that feels loose are physical faults. These are a genuine safety issue and shouldn't be used until inspected. Cable replacement is often possible without replacing the whole unit.
Most units flash specific colour codes for specific problems (overheating, earth fault, communication error). Check the manual first, some codes clear themselves after a reset, others mean the unit needs looking at.
• Reset the RCD/breaker once (not repeatedly)
• Check manufacturer app and wifi connection
• Look up any flashing fault code in the manual
• Inspect the cable and connector for visible damage
• Try charging with a different cable if available
• Check the car's own charge settings and battery lock
Anything beyond that, repeated tripping, burning smells, visible scorching, a hot socket, or the unit simply refusing to power up after checks, needs a qualified electrician. EV chargers run on a dedicated high-current circuit and any internal fault should be diagnosed by someone qualified, not opened up at home.
Costs vary depending on whether it's a simple fix (cable, fuse, reset) or a full unit swap. These are typical 2026 UK figures for callout, diagnosis and repair work.
| Job | Typical cost (2026) | |---|---| | Diagnostic callout | £60 to £100 | | Cable replacement | £80 to £180 | | RCD/breaker or wiring fix | £100 to £250 | | Internal component repair (PCB, contactor) | £150 to £350 | | Full unit replacement (like-for-like) | £700 to £1,200 | | Replacement with upgraded unit/circuit | £900 to £1,800 |
If the charger's more than a few years old, or the repair quote is getting close to half the cost of a new unit, replacement is usually the better long-term call. Our EV charger installation cost guide breaks down full install pricing if you're at that point, and it's worth checking whether your original installer offered any workmanship guarantee before paying for a fresh install.
Most EV chargers come with a manufacturer warranty, typically 2 to 3 years on the unit itself. If yours is still within that window, contact the manufacturer or the installer who fitted it first. Many faults, especially electronic or firmware ones, are covered free of charge and manufacturers often insist on using their own approved network for warranty work. Using an independent electrician on a unit still under warranty can void the cover, so check the paperwork before you book anyone.
Outside warranty, or for wiring and installation-related faults rather than unit defects, an independent qualified electrician is usually cheaper and faster than going through a manufacturer's service queue. This is also the right route if the original installer is no longer trading, or if the fault sits in the house wiring rather than the charger itself.
If you're unsure which camp your fault falls into, a short diagnostic callout from an electrician will usually tell you fairly quickly whether it's a warranty matter or a straightforward repair job.
• Is the charger less than 3 years old and installed by an approved installer?
• Is the fault with the charger itself, not the house wiring?
• Contact the manufacturer or original installer first, this is likely covered under warranty and using an independent electrician could void it.
• This is a job for an independent electrician. Post the job and compare estimates from qualified local electricians.
Once you've done the basic checks and the fault's still there, don't keep experimenting. Repeatedly resetting a tripping RCD, opening the charger casing, or trying to rewire anything yourself risks making a simple fix into an expensive one, and it's not safe. Post the job with a clear description of what you've already checked (RCD trips, fault code, cable condition) and you'll get more accurate estimates faster, since electricians can rule things out before they even arrive.
This is also the smarter route if you've already had one electrician out and weren't happy with the diagnosis or price. Comparing a few estimates for the same fault often reveals whether you're looking at a quick fix or something more involved.
Why does my EV charger keep tripping the RCD? Usually a fault in the charger, the cable, or the wiring feeding it, sometimes made worse by sharing a circuit with other heavy appliances. Don't keep resetting it, get it checked by an electrician.
Can I fix an EV charger fault myself? Basic checks like resetting a breaker once, checking wifi, and inspecting the cable are fine. Anything involving the internal components or repeated electrical faults needs a qualified electrician.
Is it cheaper to repair or replace a faulty charger? Repairs (£80 to £350) are usually cheaper for cable, wiring or minor component faults. If the unit's old or the fault's deep in the electronics, replacement (£700+) is often better value long term.
Will my warranty cover a repair? Most units carry a 2 to 3 year manufacturer warranty. Check with the manufacturer or original installer before booking an independent electrician, as unauthorised repairs can void it.
What if my charger just won't connect to the app? That's almost always a wifi or firmware issue rather than an electrical fault. Restart your router, check for app updates, and contact manufacturer support before assuming it's broken.
Get free quotes from local electricians